Archive for August, 2011

Adjusting IF Filters – the WYSIWYG Way

I’ll bet that most of us have never actually known how to adjust or “tune” the IF filters in our radios, regardless if HF/MF or VHF/UHF. All I was exposed to was to tune for best match to my EAR – if it sounds good, then it’s good enough..!!

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Although true – and certainly everything has to (eventually) pass to our ears, there may be a better way to be able to understand how filters respond – and to take advantage of their characteristics in ways that we’ve never experienced in the past. Also take into consideration that the new digital modes will be able to “hear” even below the noise-floor  - so the ear may no longer be a factor in the near future (or current). I used the following technique when I needed to adjust the bandpass characteristics of the Elecraft K2′s IF filters. It was quick, easy, highly visual and very accurate.

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The technique starts with injection of broadband, but stable (consistent) noise into the front-end of a receiver. For this, I used the Elecraft N-gen – an inexpensive, yet very useful tool that provides a noise signature that is within 3db from 100khz to 500mhz, it’s useful for all our radios to lower-UHF. The unit comes as a kit (typical Elecraft) that is very easy to assemble and has a single ON-OFF switch and a BNC-F connector for it’s output. It’s stand-alone, powered by a single 9V battery. You simply connect the N-gen using a short BNC M-to BNC-M cable, or a simple BNC-MM adapter works nicely as well. Turn the N-gen ON and you have a noise source being injected.

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The next part requires a laptop with a microphone port to the sound card, as well as some software, as we’ll now be looking at the AUDIO that results to the external speaker port of the radio (an Elecraft K2, in my case). Fortunately, most radios have standardized connectors – most HF radios use 1/4″ phono plugs, while more compact radios use the 3.5mm stereo plug. Coincidentally, most laptops also have a 3.5mm stereo receptacle for mic-INPUT (as well as output), so it was a simple case of having a short 3.5mm male-to-male stereo cable to make this test between my MacBookPro and the Elecraft K2 (about $4 at Fry’s or other similar stores).

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Software for the Audio Spectrum Analyzer comes in all flavors, as well as prices. Although we could have used many VERY expensive tools destined for the professional sound industry, there are a number of Freeware packages available.

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The technique is as follows :

  • Connect the audio OUTPUT from the radio, to the sound card INPUT (Mic-input in most cases) of the laptop.
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  • Start Spectrogram or iSpectrum, depending on your hardware platform.
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  • You should see a representation of the radio audio-output on the screen – if not, switch to the other channel (left, or right).
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  • Once you’re able to see the signal displayed as a moving graph on the screen, narrow the bandwidth of the audio sweep from a low of ZERO, to a high of about 2.5 or 3 khz. This will focus our analysis on that portion of the usable radio audio spectrum.
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  • Now start adjusting a single parameter of the current IF filter and watch the response on the Audio Spectrum Analyzer – you’ll see the noise move from left to right. If the filter is operating, you’ll see cut-off either on the left-side (low cut) or on the right-side (high-cut). In some cases, you might see both sides cut-off, signifying that you’ve engaged an IF bandpass filter.
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  • Okay… now we understand cause-versus-effect. We’ve made a change thru one of the controls, then SEEN the effect of that change to the audio spectrum. Remember the N-gen generates broadband noise that is quite uniform across the spectrum of 100khz to 500mhz – to within 3db (about 1/2 of an S-Unit), so what you see, is pretty-much what you get (remember that the human ear can only distinguish about a 4db change in sound volume – best case).
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  • Time for some real alignment – I’ll use the  8-pole CW filter that has a bandwidth of 400hz. In this case, we want the (passed) noise to be dead-center on the our SideTone frequency (600hz in my case) so I’ll set a marker at 600hz. We want the noise to be centered here – with equal fall-off on both sides of the 600hz marker.
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    Let’s start with a wider filter, so that we “zoom” into the target bandwidth – here’s the progression :

  • Above is actually of a fairly wide-band CW filter (1.0khz).. 


    Above is from a 400hz wide filter – notice that the skirts only go about 200hz on either side of the 600hz marker line…

  • SSB filters (or anything non-CW) have a broader bandpass, so instead of aligning to a center frequency like in CW (at the side-tone frequency), we normally try to align the filter to be centered BETWEEN two frequencies (low-and-high limits). The standard objective is to get as much of the received noise to be within the low and high cut-off points as possible – and not have some of the signal ‘roll-off” either the high, or the low ends.
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    Above : an example of an SSB filter that is biased too far to the low-side – while this might be good for low frequency fidelity, it will compromise high frequency response – an area where most of the consonants are in the English language. 


    Above : a better aligned SSB IF filter that keeps most of the signal within the limits of the filter bandwidth.

Elecraft P3 – PanAadapter

We ordered the Elecraft P3 Pan-Adapter along with the full-house K3. Construction was a snap – with everything coming together easily as expected. The unit is in true Elecraft style, as construction techniques are all very familiar to those who have built the K3 and K2 lines of radios.

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Many people might think (reasonably) that the P3 is ONLY for the Elecraft radios, but that isn’t true at all. The IF is adjustable on the front panel menu system, as are RS-232 interface parameters, so you could theoretically use any radio.

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Okay – why the P3..?  In my case, because it was part of a matching set with the K3 and KPA500, but the other reason is that it is a STANDALONE unit – and does not require a PC or display screen. Future upgrades (reportedly) will allow for connection of an external screen directly to the P3 (very cool).

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Those who have used a Pan-Adapter know it’s usefulness in chasing DX when they’re operating on split. This unit fills the bill very nicely – and at $700 for a fully contained unit, it’s a steal..!!

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Above : The P3 with my K3 radio

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Above: the P3 unit, with a small waterfall

Elecraft K2 QRP – Full House

It’s complete – the full-house Elecraft K2 with every available option, in QRP configuration and checks-out at about 15 watts on all bands. Since the original construction, we’ve also added the KIO2 option to give us serial I/O capability to talk with the computer, as well as to communicate with the 100w Amp/Tuner combination which I installed in a separate matching-box.

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I chose this approach so that I could keep the K2 as a full-featured QRP rig, including the internal battery and QRP Tuner – making a great grab-and-go unit which weights barely more than 5 pounds. Inside the unit are the following:

  • K2 base unit
  • SSB option
  • Noise Blanker
  • DSP unit
  • 160m option
  • 60 meter option
  • internal battery
  • auto tuner
  • serial interface

Wow.. what a great configuration..!!  The QRP configuration, coupled with a BNC-to-Binding-Post adapter allows for a simple antenna to be connected and the radio to be on-the-air almost immediately. Two lengths of ultra-thin, almost invisible wire and you’re operational with minimal fuss and a great signal. The built-in QRP tuner in the K2 allows for all-band operation. Internal battery operation allows for CW operation for in excess of 8 hours without recharge (remember, the K2 has a receive current draw of only about 125-200ma).

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Shown side-by-side with the external Amp/Tuner combination.

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HF in Singapore and Manila

I should have landed by the time this post goes live – in Singapore and will be operating as WB6RTH/9V1, followed by DU1MLL when I arrive in Manila on Wednesday  evening. Planning on using simple wire antennas – so I may only be able to get Asia region contacts, but hey – it will be fun non-the-less. Too bad that my old friend 9M1MM is no longer around – we used to chat after the SEANET weekly nets.

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We’ll primarily be on 15, 17 and 20 meters and might only have a couple of hours each day to be playing-radio.

BikeMS Training Session on the 27th

the first of two Training Sessions for this year’s BikeMS event will be held on Saturday the 27th of August at 15:00-17:00. Location will be the Flagler EOC in Bunnell (same as last year).

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Doug (N4FPS) is the Incident Commander again this year and will be leading the session. No RSVP required, but please contact your ARES EC to let them know if you plan to attend, so that they can put you on the duty roster for Event-Day assignments.

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We’re expecting a great turn-out this year and hope to see all of you there..!!

Elecraft K2 Auto Tuner – KAT2 Construction

Who would have known that an Auto Tuner would be so complex…. actually, it’s not – just that it needs to fit within a confined space, so Elecraft made the unit a 2-board assembly which is attached using stand-offs and long-pin connectors.  Not difficult to assemble and test, but you REALLY need to go slow and pay attention – especially when winding the toroids. Proper stripping of the enamel on the toroid wires is essential in this case – I use the Hakko 808 desolder tool with the 1394 tip to do all the stripping and tinning of the leads.. fast and easy.

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This baby will tune a mismatch of 10:1 – pretty darned good for such a small unit.  When integrated with the K2, SSB module, Noise Blanker and DSP module, this configuration kiss major butt. I use this configuration with a BNC-Binding Post adapter and attach ultra thin wires to the black and red posts as the antenna. Works like a charm for ultra-portable operation (like ultra-fast deployment in an emergency)

D-STAR Equipment for Sale

Our friend Jay is selling some of his DSTAR equipment which he rarely uses. All of the equipment is listed on eBay. Here’s a listing of the items for sale:

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I am selling my ICOM IC-80AD handheld D-STAR radio and DV Access Point Dongle via auction on eBay
Here are the links to each item:
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1.   ICOM IC-80AD handheld radio     eBay Item # 130562992138       http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130562992138&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_2969wt_1139
Opening bid $399.99 and includes HM-83 ear microphone.  Will deliver for free to hams in the NE Florida area, especially Jacksonville and Gainesville metro areas.  Other areas to be negotiated.
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2.   DV Access Point Dongle       eBay Item # 130562995305       http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130562995305&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_500wt_1361
Opening bid $199.99

 

Elecraft K2 – 100w Amp/Tuner; Two-In-ONE

UPDATE : here are pictures of MY unit.. completed testing and alignment this afternoon (13-August)..

Above : LEFT – the Tuner in the larger case KAT100-2    RIGHT: the K2 and KAT/KPA100 Combo


Above : LEFT – the rear of the K2 and Amp/Tuner Combo    RIGHT: K2 combo on bottom, K3 Combo on Top

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On the workbench are also one of my IFR-500 Service Monitors, Tektronics 2-channel 200mhz color digital scope, Tektronics Function Generator, Agilent High-Resolution DMM, B&K LCR meter, Elecraft N-Gen, 2T-gen and XG-3 Signal Generator
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Now here’s a novel idea.. and right down the alley that I’ve been pursuing for a couple of months now, but up till now, have been solution-less :
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  1. A Self Contained, full function HF (160-10m) radio that has at least 10w output (QRP), built-in 20w Auto-Tuner capable of 10:1 SWR or better, built-in Battery for 10-12 hour of operation, DSP filtering, noise blanker, SSB and CW and weights less than 6 pounds (ultra-portable),
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  2. but that can connect to an external box which will boost output power to 100+ watts AND have a built-in tuner capable of 10:1 or better SWR matching at the higher power. The enabling or disabling of the 100w feature should take less than 30 seconds and should be tool-less (should be plug-and-play, or unplug-and-GO).

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The Elecract K2 base unit is perfect for #1 above – it satisfies all of the requirement very nicely for field work. But it’s not ideal as a rapidly swappable base station to field rig. Normally, we’d have to replace the top of the K2 to enable the 100w amplifier, then connect the external 100w Auto Tuner (or vis-versa) – TOO MUCH HASSLE for this kid..!!

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In searching around, it seems that others had the same idea (years ago) and actually integrated the 100w amplifier along with the 100w tuner into a separate case (EC-2), making for a nice, stand-alone AMP/TUNER combination. That’s nice, but here’s the cat’s meow….  with this new configuration, ,the K2 Base Unit does not need to be changed IN ANY WAY – it stays as a QRP rig, with the built-in 20w antenna tuner and self-contained battery…!!  That means it can operate as a base station at home (connected to the 100w package), then be IMMEDIATELY disconnected and be portable, self-contained in less than 10 seconds – just disconnect power, then an RF cable and Control cable to the companion box. Assuming the unit has been plugged-into 13.8vdc power, the battery would have been trickle charging, so the unit is DEPLOYMENT-READY… .NOW..!!   I really like things to be simple – and this fits the bill nicely…

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Here are pictures of other people’s finished units – we’ll build this as well, as time permits. Just wanted to share the concepts and whys-whereforse with y’all..   Click on the pictures to enlarge

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Above – a typical Elecraft K2, but with an external 100w Amp/Tuner companion


Above – connections between the K2 and the companion Amp/Tuner – SIMPLE

Elecraft K3 Full House – COMPLETE..!!

Wow… what a radio..

Just finished the firmware upgrades as well as the filter assignments – all done with the computer (Elecraft has software for the PC, Unix and Mac computers..!!). I installed all available options on the K3, including the 2-meter transceiver – which has it’s own firmware and control circuitry and calibration routine. All installations went without a hitch.

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Total weight of the radio is less than 9 pounds..!! This is the ultimate in world-class, competition-grade Amateur transceivers – in a weight class that makes it EASY to transport across town, or around the world. I can imagine a small Pelican 1510 rolling-case with the K3, an analog power supply and supplies for 2 full 80m OCFD antennas, along with a 2-meter antenna weighing in at less than 25 pounds. The whole package would be ATA shippable and be well under any domestic or international baggage weight and size limitation. Personal DXpedition, here we come..!!

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I won’t be able to take this radio overseas for a while, but will likely take the K2 to Asia in the next 30-days for a field-run (I’m licensed in the Philippines as DU1MLL). We’ll see if 15m or 20m QRP can get to the States over the next few weeks.

Elecraft K2 SSB Module

The Elecraft SSB module was back-ordered for a number of weeks, so it wasn’t included in my original shipment on July-1, but no worries.. I was busy with the other modules in the meantime. All reports are that the K2 was designed as an outstanding, prortable CW/QRP rig, with SSB being an option – but few knew that the SSB quality from this little radio would be as good as it has been in numerous contests and ragchew sessions.

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The SSB option arrived on July-19 and I immediately got to working on it that night. Inventory of all parts first (as usual) and no missing parts were identified. I put all the parts into the parts tray, which segregates all the capacitors into separate “compartments”.. semiconductors also separated, but resistor are all together in a single tray (top of a small Tupperware lid).

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Construction was easy – just had to go slow with the toroids and insure that the enamel was stripped properly – I use the Hakko 808 to help there, since it strips and tins in one operation and it’s 100% reliable. No fear of an improper electrical connection when using the Hakko.

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Testing went smoothly.. the option takes a bit to get adjusted, but that’s part of the learning experience. We’ll get some on-the-air reports in the next couple of weeks.

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